Despite the unfortunate event of recession and economy taking a deep dive, the haute couture industry is still going strong, both financially and aesthetically. As an industry that values intricacy and attention to details, this season emphasize the weight of different fabrics and materials. Yes, I do know that New York Fashion Week just started today. No, I don't really care.
Georges Hobeika — Although my favourite quote "Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking"does not necessarily apply here, "Flowers? For haute couture spring collection? Groundbreaking" certainly does. All jokes aside, I'm actually in love with the collection since it reminds me so much of the spring 2011 collection of Chanel Haute Couture. I know, I know — so two seasons ago, whatever. Hobeika used details like fake dangling flower pedals to create the illusion of artistically torn and shredded pieces of fabric. Layering pretty fabrics can be really pretty! I would say that this collection is very Great Gatsby-esque but that sounds so stupid when you think about it. After all, pretty embroidery =/= Great Gatsby-inspired.
Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci — Gone were the days of romantic and angelic dresses. Despite being influenced by the Roaring Twenties and the Deco Era, this haute couture collection is very dark, very tough and very unconventional. In another word, very Lisbeth Salander-Rooney Mara. I can practically imagine your automatical-eyeroll at the mention of Rooney but I can't resist — she's a flawless human being! And she has cute dimples too! Moving on, the whole collection is build on crocodile skin, fine silk tulle and jersey along with chunky zippers spreading haphazardly across the fabrics. It's accessorized with "nose rings the size of their face and earrings so heavy they have to be held together by an invisible headband," as Alice of Fashionista.com had described. Embroidered with spikes and beads, it creates a simple silhouette, yet draws attention to the figure at the same time. Fashion can be full of paradoxes sometimes. It's unexpected and far from what I had possibly imagined — perhaps Tisci would continue the romantic direction, I thought naively — but since when was Riccardo Tisci expected and close to what you imagine?
I can't really have anything against this subversive and totally fetch collection other than that annoying basketball in the lower right corner, because now I can't help but imagine these models playing basketball while wearing haute couture. Having a great imagination can be troubling sometimes.
Beep beep shameless self-bragging.
Stephane Rolland — Sophistication and quirkiness does mix when it comes in a palette of black, white, red and lime green. Despite its lack of any intricate embroidery that takes more than hundreds or hours — as seen in Givenchy — Rolland achieve the same level of delicacy by defining a waist silhouette with shapes on the shoulders and/or the sleeves. Inspired by the art of Michel Deverne, the collection is full of spiral structures and volumes that one tends to associate with pagodas and Asian temples. With the help of fabrics like organza, chiffon and ostrich feathers the assembles are sharp — silhouette-wise — but softened with the help of elegant fabrics. The tasteful gold embellishments and accessories, along with the cutout gloves, are not groundbreaking or anything, are innovative on its own rights. This is like an eye orgasm right there, ugh.
Iris Van Herpen — Think alienated-silhouettes and what do you get?
Alexander McQueen spring 2010 Iris Van Herpen's spring 2012 haute couture collection, obviously. I mean, duh. "For me fashion is an expression of art that is very closely related to myself and to my body. I see it as my expression of identity combined with desire, mood and cultural setting," said the designer on her work and collections. Looking past the simple, neutral palette, Van Herpen used avant-garde materials such as leather, synthetic boat rigging, Plexiglas or the whalebones of children's umbrellas to create a futuristic collection that highlights the female body with a sculptural effect.
photo source: nowfashion